How to Take Good Airsoft Pictures

Martinez Pritur · January 19, 2010

How to Take Good Airsoft Pictures

@mods: If this is not suitable for this expanse, please move or delete as necessary. Didn't know it this was better off as a tip/trick or on its own (and no mods are online/visible).

Due to requests and an initial intent to explain what was created cheaply...

As a forward, I'd only similar to say that this probably isn't likewise organized since I'thousand trying to comprehend any I tin think of rather than writing a streamlined tutorial. Truth be told, y'all can simply look at the photos and figure information technology all out.

We've all seen the professional person studios lingering around the net. After messing effectually with what works all-time for a few months, I've found a cheap and effective solution for those of us with cameras a footstep above point-and-shoot. Granted, I have not used 1 of the newer Sony Coolpix 1,000,000,000s and so they could have everything necessary (especially a hole in the lesser for a tripod's attachment threads) to practise the aforementioned... For the tutorial, I'm using a Nikon P80 which retails at $240 and sits comfortably between eco signal-and-shoot and DSLR cameras. Betwixt using the P80 an a buddy using a Catechism Insubordinate XTi, I've establish that the single most of import thing is knowing how to change your white balance, apature, and exposure. The white balance on the Rebel XTi seemed and so complicated that I, with no feel using that camera, had no ideas on making it suitable for setup. Nikon cameras, however, have an machine-measure function where you signal the camera at what should be white in the final photo and the photographic camera will adjust to make it so.

This is what was accomplished by the cease of 10 minutes of preparation (the beginning photo is what I took when getting the photos for the tutorial). The means was much simpler that I had originally idea - information technology took a little trip to Target and a "what the hell" mindset to get information technology going. Below is what you will demand:

Soft White Light Bulbs - $.69 ea

White Electrical Tape - $ane.19

Cream Board - $3.19 ea x6 -> $nineteen.fourteen

Dust Off - $iii.99

Black poster Lath - $.57 ea x4 -> $ii.28

Total - $27.29

All the items are optional given you lot take some around the firm. I recently moved into an apartment and then I accept no spare materials on hand. The soft white light bulbs are at that place to supersede the otherwise yellow bulbs that are typically found in peoples' homes. Dust-Off is best for cleaning parts since it does not leave whatever residue behind. Dandy for scope lenses, metal surfaces (dust is bad on night surfaces) etc. definately worth getting for any photography. We used a tree light and pointed the lights at surrounding surfaces to become a more diffused/ambient light rather than a direct spot. You tin can point the light direct at the target, only you will get very defined shadows. We had no diffusors on acme of the bulbs...

With three lights, we institute that we could become very soft shadows afterward some fiddling with orientations. Lamps and other light fixtures would work well too given the use of soft white bulbs. Now for the boards... If you tile the boards for a 2x2 foursquare, you'll go about a three'x5' surface which is perfect for top downward shooting. However, if y'all shoot at ground level, you'll need to lift one edge and therefore lose some expanse. The event is like the 2nd photo I posted at the meridian (the bipod was on the kitchen floor so I chose not to include that portion). Nosotros decided that 3x2 (6'x5') was perfect such that nosotros become a good bottom surface and properties.

Using white electrical tape, Nosotros taped the edges together in an try to limit the visibility of the seams. The tape is a little more reflective that the sleeky cream board only a much better culling than black shadows acquired past imperfections. This is the end result of the surface:

You can see the seams fairly well simply those are hands removed when the exposure is lengthened or levels are changed in Photoshop. As y'all can see in the following photo, the automatic adjustments will effort to rest the photo making anything dark grey seem nigh black...

This is because the camera is trying to capture all the detail in the scene. People with point-and-shoot cameras that exercise all the adjusting automatically will accept this problem - again, I don't know if its prevalent in the newer cameras. All you need is command over the white balance, exposure, and aperature. Here is the setup I mentioned above: a 2x2 bottom surface and a 1x2 angled surface.

The back boards assist both in eliminating the groundwork of the environment it is in (the kitchen, in our instance) as well every bit bounce additional light towards the target. The tri-pod was $fifteen at Target (Targus 50" Camcorder Tripod) and works much better than furniture I was using before. If you exercise not have a tri-pod, this is definatley a squeamish one for the toll and a recommended buy if you plan on doing longer exposures (anything longer than .25 seconds). From hither, the photographer now has the freedom of choice for picking the shots and the targets. I've plant that more interesting items e'er wait better in the long run, specially free-continuing ones (read: AEG with bipod). From the setup above, I was able to get the initial photo using a 2" exposure and F8.0 with the iii lights behind me and windows with the shades closed.

Since the boards are foldable, there are a few options for amend lighting. Such is the case with an AEG that does not stand on its own:

Thank you guys. I promise this was remotely helpful. Please permit me know what I could clarify. If y'all shoot whatever photos with this setup, I would love to encounter them (perchance mail service 'em here as a Studio Photo Thread or something).

eta - added reason for getting Dust Off.

Edited January 19, 2010 by IronWolf